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Opelmanta.4mg.com
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HOME BERLINETTA 1.8S GTE 2.0 I EXCLUSIVE PARTS REQ./FOR SALE LINKS SCHEMATICS MANTA B/C HISTORY VARIOUS PICS USEFUL INFO
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Useful info
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Capacities / Fuel / Wheels & Tyres / Electrical / Conversions / Part numbers
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16 valve redtop engine change
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Click here for a full detailed
guide on how to perform this conversion
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400 rear spoiler (coupe)
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Taking off the standard boot tip spoiler
you'll immediately notice the holes are in the wrong place for the 400
type, this means carefully marking out the position for the new ones and
drilling them, the unused holes should ideally be filled and smoothed to
perfection and the whole boot lid properly re-sprayed. While your there
you should also think about de-locking the boot lid, not only for cosmetic
reasons but for security. When fitting the 400 spoiler be sure to apply double sided sticky rubber tape and even some sealant around the holes to stop water getting in/under the spoiler and causing rust.
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Central locking
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Again fairly easy, remove door card and plastic liner and follow the instructions given (kits vary in price, mine were cheap at £30), probably best to attach the mechanism just underneath the inside door lock switch so the motor can easily be attached to the metal cable. Hard part is getting the cable through to the inside of the car as there are no holes! I found it easier to have the wing off than struggling with a drill inside the door, although taking the door off would be far easier. Use a proper door rubber tube from any recent car and don't drill too far forward on the A-post otherwise the door will squash the rubber - there's a sort of 'canyon' (for want of better word) in the metal going upwards and that's where I drilled my holes and there a good fit. Then just feed the wires through and follow the wiring diagram. if you've got a remote arm/dis-arm alarm system then use the central locking interface from the alarm and have remote central locking.
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400 bonnet
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This would seem a simple conversion,
although the bonnet which I bought from a well know of company was of such
poor quality it meant I had to modify the bonnet hinges so that the bonnet
would sit forward enough to be able to close as well as extensive sanding
of the front right side of the bonnet just so it didn't stick over the
lip. Also some sort of spacers are required to lift the sides of the
bonnet up so it follows the curve of the wings. You'll also need to fit
bonnet pins as there is no metal bar on the front to lock into the
original fixing. Well worth the effort though.
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Electric cooling fan
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One of the first things to come off my
mantas were the mechanical fans connected to the water pump, these are a real bitch to get off in some cases but worth it just
for the slight gain in BHP (about 2 probably). Fitting an electric one is easy, the
type I used was from a Senator 3 litre straight 6 - a big fan thats mounted
in front of the rad, it comes with two arms that are ideal to fix to the
airdam and the top requires a small bracket to be made to hold it in
place, this bracket can be made in a sort of 'V' shape so you can use the
bonnet latch bolts to secure it. To wire it in simply have it coming off a relay and a switch on the dash or alternatively have an electronic fan control which is tapped into an existing water hose and automatically turns on the fan when water reaches the required temperature.
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| Volvo 4 pot brake conversion |
If used with Carlton vented disc expect a large overhang of pad off the disc - alternatively get some Astra 16v vented discs and a machined spacer for no overhang of pads. Calliper requires 2 hydraulic lines but you can just join the 2 inlets with a brass 3-way adaptor (good source for these are Austin possibly rover as well, metros as threes 2 on the bulkhead), make some small lengths of brake line up and join to 3 way and secure it to the calliper, a larger master cylinder (maybe a monza 23mm) is required to cut down on extra pedal travel but it's really not essential. Your 14" Ronal's will definitely not fit over the calliper (unless you take a grinder to the calliper! very risky & probably not worth the risk as they have been known to rupture due to being weakened) also a small spacer/washer may be required in between calliper and hub. Flexi hoses can either be made from DIY kits available from places such as rallydesign or as I did; fit some flexi's from the front of a Peugeot 405 - these are correct length and fittings to connect to the original manta pipe going through inner wing and to go on the brass 3-way. 'Bleeding' requires the inner 2 nipples (top and side - I did top first) being done first then the outer one. This is an easy conversion using the Volvo 240 callipers and Carlton discs as it all just bolts straight on.
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